Woke up to a wee bit of rain. Nothing too much, just enough to make walking a drudgery. The big thing is the wind.
Glen let me sleep in as he went for breakfast. (Sweety)
We travelled south to see some of the sights and craft places. We went to the castle at Scalloway. Scalloway was originally the Shetland's capital. The castle was built around 1600 and you can still walk about inside (although there are no roofs). It was built by Earl Patrick Stewart who apparently was not a very nice fellow. At the museum, we looked about and found a Shetland lace scarf and instructions on how to make them. I bought a couple for Joy and me to attempt.
We walked about and stopped at a nice cafe and I had a scone, cream and tea. It is a cute town.
We drove further south to a group of islands called Burra. We were looking for a place that makes teddy bears named Burra Bears (didn't go in the end) and an artist studio, where we did purchase a small painting.
We walked around a beach area called Mean Beach (or something like that. The waves were wild and Glen took off his shoes and walked close to the waves I was worried about him being swept away because it was pretty wild. He keeps giving me the heeby jeebies with his daring ways.
Returned back to our hotel a bit early to prepare to leave for Iceland tomorrow. Our friends, Ludwid and Bjarney have offered to take us around the Golden Circle on Monday. Should be fun!
Saturday, July 16, 2016
Day Nine: We found the Ponies and Puffin!
This is not good. I can't seem to load any pictures onto my blog and I have some good ones! Arghh!
We took off early this morning to head north. It meant catching two ferries (which we did not have pre-booked). It appeared that there wasn't a problem, but it was fairly busy getting on the first one to the island of Yell. GOTTA LOVE THAT NAME!
We pretty much drove straight north because we were trying to catch the ferry to Unst, because that is where I was told you could find Shetland ponies wandering freely and puffins by the thousands! Well both were a bit of an exaggeration.
When we first arrived at Unst we were greeted by about 8 Shetland ponies blocking the road. (Great pictures here, but sorry...temporarily I hope). Glen drove on and I insisted he head back (which turned out to be a good idea) and I got out of the car and he took lots of pictures of me with the ponies. One of them was rather skittish and I was told later that they can be rather nasty, but they seemed fine to me. Their manes are like straw. I would say they could all have done with a good grooming. They are truly like pot-bellied pigs! Not sure I could have got my legs to go around their bellies anyhow, so no riding....
Off we headed to the Hermaness Nature Reserve at the northern tip of Unst. The most northerly part of Britain. Fortunately, we stopped and picked up some sandwiches (for our hike later).
Now, neither Glen or I know much about birds. I recognize robins, eagles and seagulls (well probably more, but not much). The hike to the cliffs of Hermaness was about a mile along a walkway over the peat. It was a beautiful walk, but suddenly the world opened up to the cliffs of Hermaness. It was incredible. One of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. The green of the grass against the blue ocean and brown cliffs was striking. We wandered around and discovered puffins (often disappearing into their burrows in the grass by the cliffs). Sheep with their lambs wandered freely, daring to climb cliffs that showed their amazing agility. Definitely they are less worried than people about playground safety for their young!!
We walked over to there was a gannet colony. Colony doesn't quite describe it. You knew you were getting close because of the overwhelming fishy urine odor. Then the cliffs became white with birds. They were swooping and cawing and pooping. It was sheer bird chaos. But the smell was a tad much so you didn't want to spend a ton of time here. We spent more than we'd like because Glen couldn't get the video on the camera to work. Arghh. Hold your breath!
We then hiked the other direction to another gannet colony that we thought had been white rock islands. Well, the white was gannets. It was down this very steep grassy hill (which yes, we had to climb up on the way back) (Think great pictures again).
We decided we'd best hike back out as we were worried about ferries (no problem again). Glen said we should get back so we didn't go to see the Muness Castle. Minor disappointment of my part.
Just as we were leaving a couple were walking along the road. We stopped to see if they needed a ride and they certainly did. They were completely lost. From New Zealand, someone had dropped them off at Hermaness and they had said they'd walk back. Well, the walk was about 10 miles! We drove them to the village where they were staying, but they had no idea where they were to go. We eventually dropped them off at the post office. At least they were 10 miles closer than when they started. Weird.
We are now safe and sound back at the hotel, enjoying a glass of wine and considering dinner. It just started raining so "we done good!"
We took off early this morning to head north. It meant catching two ferries (which we did not have pre-booked). It appeared that there wasn't a problem, but it was fairly busy getting on the first one to the island of Yell. GOTTA LOVE THAT NAME!
We pretty much drove straight north because we were trying to catch the ferry to Unst, because that is where I was told you could find Shetland ponies wandering freely and puffins by the thousands! Well both were a bit of an exaggeration.
When we first arrived at Unst we were greeted by about 8 Shetland ponies blocking the road. (Great pictures here, but sorry...temporarily I hope). Glen drove on and I insisted he head back (which turned out to be a good idea) and I got out of the car and he took lots of pictures of me with the ponies. One of them was rather skittish and I was told later that they can be rather nasty, but they seemed fine to me. Their manes are like straw. I would say they could all have done with a good grooming. They are truly like pot-bellied pigs! Not sure I could have got my legs to go around their bellies anyhow, so no riding....
Off we headed to the Hermaness Nature Reserve at the northern tip of Unst. The most northerly part of Britain. Fortunately, we stopped and picked up some sandwiches (for our hike later).
Now, neither Glen or I know much about birds. I recognize robins, eagles and seagulls (well probably more, but not much). The hike to the cliffs of Hermaness was about a mile along a walkway over the peat. It was a beautiful walk, but suddenly the world opened up to the cliffs of Hermaness. It was incredible. One of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. The green of the grass against the blue ocean and brown cliffs was striking. We wandered around and discovered puffins (often disappearing into their burrows in the grass by the cliffs). Sheep with their lambs wandered freely, daring to climb cliffs that showed their amazing agility. Definitely they are less worried than people about playground safety for their young!!
We walked over to there was a gannet colony. Colony doesn't quite describe it. You knew you were getting close because of the overwhelming fishy urine odor. Then the cliffs became white with birds. They were swooping and cawing and pooping. It was sheer bird chaos. But the smell was a tad much so you didn't want to spend a ton of time here. We spent more than we'd like because Glen couldn't get the video on the camera to work. Arghh. Hold your breath!
We then hiked the other direction to another gannet colony that we thought had been white rock islands. Well, the white was gannets. It was down this very steep grassy hill (which yes, we had to climb up on the way back) (Think great pictures again).
We decided we'd best hike back out as we were worried about ferries (no problem again). Glen said we should get back so we didn't go to see the Muness Castle. Minor disappointment of my part.
Just as we were leaving a couple were walking along the road. We stopped to see if they needed a ride and they certainly did. They were completely lost. From New Zealand, someone had dropped them off at Hermaness and they had said they'd walk back. Well, the walk was about 10 miles! We drove them to the village where they were staying, but they had no idea where they were to go. We eventually dropped them off at the post office. At least they were 10 miles closer than when they started. Weird.
We are now safe and sound back at the hotel, enjoying a glass of wine and considering dinner. It just started raining so "we done good!"
Day Seven: Birsay Vikings, Puffin and Cliffs, Gerry's Orkney Ice Cream, Whiskey, Jewelry and More Driving
Got up early to get to the Bough of Birsay while the tide was out. It was a bit of a drive to the north-west corner of the Mainland Island. The island of Birsay is joined to the Mainland by a walkway which can only be used during low tide.
When you get to the Bough of Birsay there are the remnants of an ancient Viking settlement. It is amazing how much of it still exists! It is also amazing that you can just walk around, taking pictures. In fact, there were a number of kids running on top of the ruins!
From there we walked to the top of the island where there was a lighthouse. That wasn't very interesting, but on the other side were these amazing cliffs--sort of like yesterday at Yesnady. Again, Glen scared the tar out of me as he kept getting so close to the edge. Of course, then I had to get pictures of me, too! At one point I was hanging off the ends of a cliff hundreds of metres above the ocean trying to get a picture of a puffin!
We then drove to the Earl's Palace. This was built in the 1600's. The story wasn't that interesting, but it was a great place for pictures.
Gerry's Ice Cream was waiting for us. After last night when we got there just as she was closing, today we made it just in time. Unfortunately, we didn't bring in our cameras so...no pictures.
Now came Glen's part of the holiday. We stopped at Scaba Distillery and took a tour. Actually, it was rather interesting and Ruby, the guide, was a sweet young thing who is considering moving to be a nanny for a relative in Vancouver! They are a very small distillery but apparently had some interesting flavours. Then we headed to Highland Park--much larger and renown. This was a tad disappointing. They really didn't have much that you couldn't buy in Canada unless you wanted to spend over $1000.
From there we travelled to Sheila Fleet's Jewelry. She makes amazing jewelry using the colours and elements of the Orkneys. Glen bought me a necklace and earrings which are from a collection called "Grasses of Orkney."
We drove down to St Margaret's Parish and had a pleasant walk around the town. I bought an adorable felted Highland cow that I will make into a Christmas ornament.
When you get to the Bough of Birsay there are the remnants of an ancient Viking settlement. It is amazing how much of it still exists! It is also amazing that you can just walk around, taking pictures. In fact, there were a number of kids running on top of the ruins!
From there we walked to the top of the island where there was a lighthouse. That wasn't very interesting, but on the other side were these amazing cliffs--sort of like yesterday at Yesnady. Again, Glen scared the tar out of me as he kept getting so close to the edge. Of course, then I had to get pictures of me, too! At one point I was hanging off the ends of a cliff hundreds of metres above the ocean trying to get a picture of a puffin!
We then drove to the Earl's Palace. This was built in the 1600's. The story wasn't that interesting, but it was a great place for pictures.
Gerry's Ice Cream was waiting for us. After last night when we got there just as she was closing, today we made it just in time. Unfortunately, we didn't bring in our cameras so...no pictures.
Now came Glen's part of the holiday. We stopped at Scaba Distillery and took a tour. Actually, it was rather interesting and Ruby, the guide, was a sweet young thing who is considering moving to be a nanny for a relative in Vancouver! They are a very small distillery but apparently had some interesting flavours. Then we headed to Highland Park--much larger and renown. This was a tad disappointing. They really didn't have much that you couldn't buy in Canada unless you wanted to spend over $1000.
From there we travelled to Sheila Fleet's Jewelry. She makes amazing jewelry using the colours and elements of the Orkneys. Glen bought me a necklace and earrings which are from a collection called "Grasses of Orkney."
We drove down to St Margaret's Parish and had a pleasant walk around the town. I bought an adorable felted Highland cow that I will make into a Christmas ornament.
Friday, July 15, 2016
Day Eight: So Where are the Ponies and Puffins?
We flew into the southern part of the Shetland Islands. Glen got his pinky-purple little car--ahhh, so masculine. Off we drove to Lerwick, which is about 22 miles north. We stopped for lunch--more fish and chips. All of that grease is not doing well for Glen's tummy and my nose...
I finally got my wee felted puffin--although I've actually only seen one puffin and it almost cost me my life trying to get a picture of him.
We continued driving north to Brae. Our hotel was built in the 1500's and is a bit of a maze. Our "view" is of the garbage cans outside but the actual hotel is unique.
After a little sleep for me and an "internet" break for Glen we headed off on a hike close to our hotel. It took us through fields of sheep and heather. It was beautiful. We got a bit lost and headed to the cliffs (seems to be a theme on this trip). It was challenging following what were sheep paths and the real path. We were looking for a lighthouse. We discovered a few wee lakes and then ended up at a huge crevice. Got lots of wild pictures of Glen and I on cliffs. I think we scared each other "*&^less."
We hiked back (it was about a 3 hour hike in the end) and then drove back to the hotel.
We had a great dinner. Our waitress is from Poland (Anya) and is just graduating from Gdansk University in marine architecture! It is so surprising when you ask people about their stories!
I finally got my wee felted puffin--although I've actually only seen one puffin and it almost cost me my life trying to get a picture of him.
We continued driving north to Brae. Our hotel was built in the 1500's and is a bit of a maze. Our "view" is of the garbage cans outside but the actual hotel is unique.
After a little sleep for me and an "internet" break for Glen we headed off on a hike close to our hotel. It took us through fields of sheep and heather. It was beautiful. We got a bit lost and headed to the cliffs (seems to be a theme on this trip). It was challenging following what were sheep paths and the real path. We were looking for a lighthouse. We discovered a few wee lakes and then ended up at a huge crevice. Got lots of wild pictures of Glen and I on cliffs. I think we scared each other "*&^less."
We hiked back (it was about a 3 hour hike in the end) and then drove back to the hotel.
We had a great dinner. Our waitress is from Poland (Anya) and is just graduating from Gdansk University in marine architecture! It is so surprising when you ask people about their stories!
Tuesday, July 12, 2016
Day Six: A Busy Day of History, Getting Lost, Scenery, Getting Lost, Ice Cream, Getting Lost and Hikes
After breakfast, we headed off to see some of the sites. We drove north-west to see some of the prehistoric sites for which the Orkneys are famous. Many of these sites have only recently been discovered (well, in the last century). The roads are narrow with wee pullouts and are rather poorly marked. I finally found a map that actually worked after we got lost a few times.
The first of the sites we stopped at was the Stones of Stenness. They don't seem to really know why they are here but they were set up 3000 years or so ago.
The first of the sites we stopped at was the Stones of Stenness. They don't seem to really know why they are here but they were set up 3000 years or so ago.
Directly beside them is an ancient site of Barnhouse, which was the site of an ancient village. The people who lived here are thought to have been the builders of Maes Howe--see later.
After this, we drove a short distance to the Ring of Brodgar. Only 21 of the 60 stones are still standing, but it is a magical spot. It is older than Stonehenge!
Next, we drove to Stromness, a town on the west coast of the Mainland where we walked about and had lunch. It is a very cute little town, with interesting stores but few places to eat.
After lunch, we headed to Skara Brae, which is the most amazing archaeological site. It predates both the pyramids of Giza and Stonehenge and was only discovered during a huge windstorm in 1850. It has a great interpretive centre with the interesting and unique displays and interactive exhibits. Then you head out to the actual village site where you can still see the houses with the beds, boxes and dressers of the people who lived here 5000 years ago. That sand really preserved a lot!
Leaving there, we drove to Yesnaby. This was pretty much the highlight of the day for scenery. The cliffs are amazing and we walked through the heather and grasslands to see the Yesnaby Stack. What is so amazing is that you don't have to walk very far from the main tourist attractions to discover that no one else is around. This was especially true of the Stack--it was about a 15-minute walk and when we got there, no one was around.
Our last archaeological stop was at Maes Howe. Egypt has the pyramids and Scotland has Maes Howe. Built about 5000 years ago, this is a Stone Age tomb that was constructed out of enormous sandstone blocks weighing many tons and brought from great distances away--challenging to do in this day and age, never mind then! You can actually walk (well, crunched over) through a passageway into the crypt. Inside there are 3 additional chambers. No one seems to really know what had been interred there. However, during the winter solstice and for 20 days on either side, in the evening the sun reflects directly on the back wall--an interesting phenomenon which is now recorded by a webcam! As well, there are numerous Viking "graffiti" engraved with rather interesting sayings. For instance, one says
- "Ingigerth is the most beautiful of all women" (carved beside a rough drawing of a slavering dog)
- "This mound was raised before Ragnarr Lothbrocks her sons were brave smooth-hide men though they were"
Finally, we headed off to drive back to the Ayre Hotel. But we had one last stop--Gerry's Orkney Ice Cream. She wasn't very happy when we arrived because she was trying to close shop but we got in and had our cones. We'll go back tomorrow to try their specialties!
Monday, July 11, 2016
Day Five: Off the the Orkneys
We continue to luck out with the weather. It isn't sunny, but there has been very little rain.
After a pleasant breakfast, we caught a taxi off to the airport and headed off to the Orkneys. It can best be described as pastoral. Lots of hills, rock walls, small homes made of rocks and sheep--and cows, too.
After a pleasant breakfast, we caught a taxi off to the airport and headed off to the Orkneys. It can best be described as pastoral. Lots of hills, rock walls, small homes made of rocks and sheep--and cows, too.
We got picked up and taken to the car rental. I literally am having a heart attack with Glen at the wheel. He's doing okay, but keeps pulling into the intersections too far. I also wouldn't mind him taking a bit more time to make decisions about which lane to turn into. I think he's getting a bit better, but you just can't rely on your own instincts!!! I hate roundabouts!
We wandered through the town of Kirkwall and stopped for a typical greasy lunch of fish and chips.
While stopping at the Information booth I bought a walking in the Orkneys and Shetlands book. Off we went to find the Wideford Hill Cairns. With a few detours we ended up a little dirt road on top of the Wideford Hill. Lovely views of the Mainland Island.
We got a bit lost and walked the wrong direction for quite a while, but there were gorgeous views and interesting types of vegetation. Lots of thistles in bloom, heather and these weird fluffy white things.
But the best is Glen's hair in the wind!
We eventually found our way to the cairns. Tip-toeing through sheep poop, we walked about 2 km to the cairns--a tomb that you can actually climb into.
Climbing into the cairn
The Cairn
Creepy!
Silhouette on the Cairn
Sleeping In, Broken Buses, Castles and Trinkets in Edinburgh
Got up late and missed breakfast, to Glen's horror. How could we miss black pudding breakfast????
Wandered off to the bus station where we missed the bus because I had to go to the washroom. You have to pay to go and I couldn't find the right coins (still learning all the different 'pence.') haha When I came back, Glen was trying to run to the bus but it took off. No big deal because the next one leaves in 15 minutes. So off we finally go. But when some woman got on at a bus stop en route, the door wouldn't close. We sat for about 10 to 15 minutes with the driver trying to open and close it. Finally, he called in and (not sure if the door was fixed or not) off we went again.
Upon arriving in Glasgow, we found our hotel room--close to the castle and in a really great location. The room wasn't ready, but we left our bags and headed off. Found some very interesting trinkets--scotch-flavoured condoms to a Black Watch kilt for me. Can't tell you all of the stuff we found because they might be presents for some of you!
We toured the castle. I think we got some great pictures which I will try and add later. It really is a magnificent place. You wander around and imagine what it might have been like to stay there. Preferably not as a prisoner!
We then wandered High Street, which is where all of the shops are situated. Lots to look at and see. We ended up in a wee pub where Glen and I spent time making up the life history of an older fellow who was quite drunk and sitting by himself. He didn't work in an office, but for the post office. His wife had died a few years ago and he drank daily at the neighbourhood pub. His buddies regularly bought him drinks (some fellow did) but didn't talk to him much. Well, that's our story. It got more detailed, but that is the main idea.
Wandered off to the bus station where we missed the bus because I had to go to the washroom. You have to pay to go and I couldn't find the right coins (still learning all the different 'pence.') haha When I came back, Glen was trying to run to the bus but it took off. No big deal because the next one leaves in 15 minutes. So off we finally go. But when some woman got on at a bus stop en route, the door wouldn't close. We sat for about 10 to 15 minutes with the driver trying to open and close it. Finally, he called in and (not sure if the door was fixed or not) off we went again.
Upon arriving in Glasgow, we found our hotel room--close to the castle and in a really great location. The room wasn't ready, but we left our bags and headed off. Found some very interesting trinkets--scotch-flavoured condoms to a Black Watch kilt for me. Can't tell you all of the stuff we found because they might be presents for some of you!
We toured the castle. I think we got some great pictures which I will try and add later. It really is a magnificent place. You wander around and imagine what it might have been like to stay there. Preferably not as a prisoner!
We then wandered High Street, which is where all of the shops are situated. Lots to look at and see. We ended up in a wee pub where Glen and I spent time making up the life history of an older fellow who was quite drunk and sitting by himself. He didn't work in an office, but for the post office. His wife had died a few years ago and he drank daily at the neighbourhood pub. His buddies regularly bought him drinks (some fellow did) but didn't talk to him much. Well, that's our story. It got more detailed, but that is the main idea.
A very sad prisoner
Ridin' the Cannons
A Wee Lassie Dancin' a Jig
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